Parmigiana di melanzane—Eggplant Parmesan

 


Eggplant Parmesan is one of the best dishes of Neapolitan cooking, which, in its turn, is one of the most interesting regional cuisines of Italy. This dish has become a standard in Naples and throughout Italy. People say that it is good even if badly prepared, and that it is almost impossible to make it badly. Many versions of this dish exist. 

Serves 6

2 pounds (1 kg) very ripe fresh or canned tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped
3 or 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 pounds (2 kg) long, thin eggplants (aubergines)
2 cups (500 ml) extra virgin olive oil
Salt
1 bunch basil
10 ounces (280 g) fresh buffalo mozzarella, thinly sliced
7 ounces (200 g) provola affumicata (smoked provolone cheese), thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups (185 g) grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

Because it is rather demanding in its preparation, the exact number of servings is never estimated—one makes a couple of casseroles of it to serve as a main course, and often it is all eaten at one time. But if there is some left over, so much the better; whoever feels like visiting the refrigerator will be very happy.

You will need eggplants of the narrow, long variety, fully ripe tomatoes, and three cheeses: mozzarella (di bufala), a soft cheese made with buffalo milk; provola affumicata, a medium-hard, tangy, smoked cheese made of buffalo milk as well; and Parmesan. Unless the cheese department of your local market is very good, you may need to visit an Italian grocery store.

You may cook the tomatoes, making a true pomarola sauce, but I prefer the version in which the tomatoes cook in the oven together with the eggplant because the preparation looks fresher and avoids any taste of acidity.

In a bowl, combine the tomatoes and the garlic. Cut the eggplants crosswise in 1/2-inch- (1-cm-) thick slices. Do this with some accuracy, because in this instance thickness is important. Pour the oil in a skillet and heat over high heat. Very hot oil allows the slices to be crunchy gold outside without cooking too much inside. When the oil begins to smoke, start frying the slices 4 or 5 at a time, for about 4 to 5 minutes until golden. If the oil is deep enough to completely immerse the slices, you do not need to turn them; otherwise, turn them halfway through the frying time. Drain each slice well on absorbent paper, sprinkling salt on both sides; never stack the slices.

Fill two 9 by 13-inch (20 by 30-cm) baking dishes as follows: Place a few spoonfuls of tomato at the bottom, then add a single layer of eggplant slices. Cover them with more tomato, then with basil leaves, and then mozzarella and provolone slices. Top with 3 to 4 tablespoons (20 to 30 g) of Parmesan cheese. Start again with an eggplant layer and repeat with the other ingredients. You should make at least 3 layers of eggplant and 2 of filling, finishing with an eggplant layer topped by tomatoes only.

Bake uncovered at 325°F (160°C) for 30 to 40 minutes. Allow to cool before serving. It may be eaten lukewarm or even cold, but never straight from the oven. The dish needs no accompaniment, though you may add more grated Parmesan to serve.